Middle Lagoon, Dampier Peninsula

THE tempo of the trip has changed. Until we reached Broome, most days comprised travelling hundreds of kilometres, punctuated by coffee and Sao breaks.

It was great to touch down in the historic pearling port of Broome, where three days passed in a flurry of stocking-up, cleaning up, cappuccinos and sight-seeing.

But now things have really slowed down and the back beat is the relaxing rhythm of waves breaking gently on warm sand. Very nice.

We’re camped at the Middle Lagoon Camp Ground, on the Dampier Peninsula, north west of Broome.

From “absolute waterfront” sites on a sandy ridge, we can watch the tides of the Indian Ocean slip in and out of a small sandy bay. No power supplied, but bore water taps on each site along with well maintained bathroom and laundry facilities, $22 per person per night. Pretty blissful all up – and if the blokes can catch some fish, it will be even better.

Above: Letting air out of the tyres before the rough dirt of the Cape Leveque Road.

The road to the Dampier Peninsula includes dirt stretches which are quite challenging. It’s best to keep your heads and tyre pressures down, and slog on through. There may have been a ‘no caravans’ sign there somewhere but I couldn’t see it for the dust. 

Do detour a couple of kilometres to see the delightful Sacred Heart Church at Beagle Bay, built by German missionaries in 1918. The mother-of-pearl decor is remarkable.

Note: Paul caught the first edible fish, a bream. Kind neighbours (who fish and camp here annually from May to August) gave us some Cobia and Mackerel steaks, which fed us all.


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